United NationsDepartment of Economic and Social Affairs Sustainable Development

Melissa Lockwood

Melissa Joyce Lockwood (
Private sector
)
#SDGAction46558
    Description
    Intro

    Melissa Lockwood is an interdisciplinary artist who has been creating garments with fashion industry waste fabrics in NYC for 10+ years.

    With so much fabric going into the landfills it is important for designers to learn to keep fabrics in use. The fashion industry is the number three industry causing global impacting pollution.

    The fashion industry's current wasteful, polluting production methods need to collapse and be replaced by a new zero waste system.

    Melissa has developed a method that utilizes the waste fabric areas in fashion pattern layout.   The method she developed creates additional garments from the pattern layout waste areas that are usually sent to the landfill.

    Her project explains how designers can make more garments and less landfill waste by learning to design into their waste fabric areas, specifically the pattern layout waste areas.

     

     

     

    Description

    Melissa’s research has been focused on analyzing fashion pattern layout waste fabrics, this is the area outside of and surrounding the intended garment pattern pieces. This fabric is thrown away in massive quantities at the factories.

    During her research of fashion industry waste fabrics she discovered a technique that can lower fashion industry waste fabrics globally. Melissa noticed a glitch in the production system, massive quantities of fabric is being deposited into the landfills. It happened that the fabrics in the dumpsters had something in common. The fabric was in stacks of same shape pieces. The stacks had many pieces all the same shape.

    As Melissa watched fabric being cut out in a factory she noticed that all the intended garment pieces were cut out in stacks of multiple same shape pieces. Simultaneously the waste pieces were cut out in the same number of pieces, these were thrown away.  

    When Melissa collected samples of the discarded stacks of fabric, she noticed that many of the pieces were long and narrow widening at one end. Melissa intuitively decided to create a cylinder with the pieces, she didn’t alter the shapes of the pieces and cylinders were easily formed Melissa adjusted these into dresses, skirts and capes.  This concept and process can be applied to any mass production block pattern.

    The premise of Melissa’s project is to identify and utilize the long narrow widening at one end pieces of fabric found in the pattern layout waste areas.  Melissa has found that the stacks of same shape pieces are usable, through application of radial projection.  By applying radial projection to these same shape pieces the creation of cylindrical structures is easily accomplished and thus wearable garments are easily made.

    Expected Impact

    The Impact of this project depends on the number of fashion designers to adopt this practice. This project can make a significant impact when mass producing global designers incorporate  this idea into their practices.  Finding any usable stacks of same shape pieces in the pattern layout waste areas will create more garments and less landfill waste.

    The design and production of clothing made from the pattern layout waste area will be an improvement over depositing these fabrics in the landfills.  What is unique about this project is that it looks and the mass production pattern layout layers as a design area.  Utilizing the multiple same shape pieces as a design concept.

    Melissa expects that this concept will be employed and major improvements will be made.  It is a simple procedure.  She can easily teach designers to utilize this process.

    To understand and utilize this concept, designers will need to let form follow function.  In this instance, Melissa means in order to lower fashion industry waste flexibility in design control will need to happen.  Since the shapes are determined by the unique original pattern parts.  The designer will need to allow the predetermined shapes that are a byproduct of the pattern layout.  To adjust the pattern layout to maximize the usage of the pattern layout waste fabrics.

    The shapes created by traditional garments pattern layout create repeatedly usable shapes for garment creation with the waste fabrics.

    Melissa’s experiments are wearable and easy to make, considered fashion forward, stylish and collections are featured in Vogue and other publications.

     

     

    Implementation of the Project/Activity

    The need has arrived to reduce the waste stream of fabric into landfills. Fabric waste is hurting our planet through its excess production and discard as pre-consumer and post consumer waste. It is estimated  that 92 million tons of textile waste is created annually by the fashion industry.  The production and waste are causing pollution both on land, in the atmosphere and our oceans.

    Melissa’s project focuses of pre-consumer waste fabrics produced during the cut out of garments at mass producing factories.  She pinpoints mass production pattern layout fabrics.

    During her research of fashion industry waste fabrics, she discovered a technique that can lower fashion industry waste fabrics globally. Melissa noticed a glitch in the production system, massive quantities of pre consumer fabrics are being deposited into the landfills.

    While observing garments being cut out in a factory Melissa noticed that all the intended garment pieces were cut out in stacks of multiple same shape pieces and the waste pieces were cut out in the same number of pieces and were thrown away.

    Additionally, Melissa noticed that many of the pieces were long and narrow, widening at one end, she intuitively without altering of the shapes of the pieces created cylinders and garments wereeasily formed.

    Melissa has created a method that uses radial project in garment conceptualization based on pattern layout of discard fabric shapes found in fashion pattern layout waste.

    Radial projection is applied to the stacks of same shape pieces produced in mass production pattern layout waste areas.  As a production pattern layout is created with the original garment pieces and the knowledge of the quantity to be manufacture one can design with the multiple same shape pieces found in the pattern layout waste areas.  This can be done in the pre-production process.  Designers can design into the areas because they can quantify the number of same shape pieces and they’re sizes.

    Through the use of the same shape pieces and the application of radial projection on the structure of the form makes it possible to pre determine the outcome of a 3D object from the waste fabric areas. It is possible for fashion designers to mine the layout patterns waste area for additional garments.

    Patterns can be made in the “waste fabric” areas along side the original garments patterns once the layout of originating garments in formed.  Patterns can be made with the “waste fabric” areas alongside the original garments patterns. 

    Melissa is looking for consultations with fashion designers to share this concept in detail to realize its potential.

     

    Arrangements for Capacity-Building and Technology Transfer

    Melissa directly workshops/teaches methods to lower fashion industry waste online and in person.

    Melissa has taught at, The Putney Schools Summer Arts Program, teaching fashion design: zero waste pattern making and up-cycling.  Additionally she has taught in person workshops in NYC and online live and through video.

    Melissa is transferring technology and ideas as freely as possible through, fashion shows, exhibits, showrooms, pop ups, workshops, artists residencies and consultations.

    Melissa is looking for designers and factories to share her research with so it will spread as a global practice.

    Melissa is part of the Design Science Studio and member of the Buckminster Fuller Institute.  She has had direct participation online and in person the last two years.   Melissa has been researching fashion industry pattern layout waste for 12 plus years.

    Coordination mechanisms

    The goal of this project is to teach fashion designers a method that allows them to design with the fabric the usually throw away as a byproduct of their production process.

    This technique transforms the waste area into a use area during the design and layout for production process.

    This project when utilized will lower fashion industry greenhouse omissions. it will create positive change in the fashion industry world wide.

    This is a major discovery!

    Evaluation

    Melissa's method has been tested and has achieved zero waste block patterns with traditional garment pattern layout.

    This technique can transform traditional garment patterns layout to zero waste, it has been tested on pattern blocks containing: hooded jackets, pants, tops, capes and skirts.

    This project creates a new vernacular in fashion design through its use of the multiple same shape pattern layout waste area pieces that are a bi-product of the design process.  The acceptance of these predetermined shapes as usable is a new concept in fashion design.  With 12 plus years of designing with these unique shapes Melissa has nearly show that they are usable pieces.

    Partners

    Design Science Studio 

    https://www.designscience.studio

    Buckminster Fuller Institute

    https://www.bfi.org

    habRitual

    https://www.habritual.studio

     

    Quantify
    During mass production layout of fashion garments 10-30% of the fabric used is thrown away as pre-consumer textile waste. These fabrics are generated by the pattern layout waste areas, this mean nearly 10-30% of the fabric placed on the cutout table immediately is sent to the landfill. When designers learn to design into these areas more garments can be made with the fabric and less will go to the landfills and eventually a sustainable system can be developed.

    It is estimated that 92 million tons of textile waste is created annually by the fashion industry. To reduce the pre-consumer waste made during pattern layout will reduce this number significantly.

    The use of the pattern area waste fabrics as a design vernacular can raise awareness about the necessity of reducing fabrics of all kinds becoming landfill waste. To show the value of the once thought of waste fabrics can emphasize the need to retain and conserve existing garments. This can help change the fashion consumer and industry away from the the trend fast fashions has created. The trend of garment discard and fabric waste needs to end. The fast fashion model has proven unsustainable and a new model needs to be implemented.

    To learn to design into the once ignored pattern layout waste areas is a step in the right direction. The use of radial projection with these unique shapes creates wearable and fashionable garments adding to the fashion industries positive changes that need to happen.
    Nature
    Reducing fashion industry fabric waste will lower landfill pollution and lower greenhouse gas emissions. This will curb global warming, reduce flooding and other environmental impacts.

    Goal 3

    Ensure healthy lives and promote well-being for all at all ages

    Goal 3

    3.1

    By 2030, reduce the global maternal mortality ratio to less than 70 per 100,000 live births
    3.1.1

    Maternal mortality ratio

    3.1.2

    Proportion of births attended by skilled health personnel

    3.2

    By 2030, end preventable deaths of newborns and children under 5 years of age, with all countries aiming to reduce neonatal mortality to at least as low as 12 per 1,000 live births and under-5 mortality to at least as low as 25 per 1,000 live births
    3.2.1

    Under-five mortality rate

    3.2.2

    Neonatal mortality rate

    3.3

    By 2030, end the epidemics of AIDS, tuberculosis, malaria and neglected tropical diseases and combat hepatitis, water-borne diseases and other communicable diseases

    3.3.1

    Number of new HIV infections per 1,000 uninfected population, by sex, age and key populations

    3.3.2

    Tuberculosis incidence per 100,000 population

    3.3.3

    Malaria incidence per 1,000 population

    3.3.4

    Hepatitis B incidence per 100,000 population

    3.3.5

    Number of people requiring interventions against neglected tropical diseases

    3.4

    By 2030, reduce by one third premature mortality from non-communicable diseases through prevention and treatment and promote mental health and well-being
    3.4.1

    Mortality rate attributed to cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes or chronic respiratory disease

    3.4.2

    Suicide mortality rate

    3.5

    Strengthen the prevention and treatment of substance abuse, including narcotic drug abuse and harmful use of alcohol

    3.5.1

    Coverage of treatment interventions (pharmacological, psychosocial and rehabilitation and aftercare services) for substance use disorders

    3.5.2

    Alcohol per capita consumption (aged 15 years and older) within a calendar year in litres of pure alcohol

    3.6

    By 2020, halve the number of global deaths and injuries from road traffic accidents
    3.6.1

    Death rate due to road traffic injuries

    3.7

    By 2030, ensure universal access to sexual and reproductive health-care services, including for family planning, information and education, and the integration of reproductive health into national strategies and programmes

    3.7.1

    Proportion of women of reproductive age (aged 15-49 years) who have their need for family planning satisfied with modern methods

    3.7.2

    Adolescent birth rate (aged 10-14 years; aged 15-19 years) per 1,000 women in that age group

    3.8

    Achieve universal health coverage, including financial risk protection, access to quality essential health-care services and access to safe, effective, quality and affordable essential medicines and vaccines for all

    3.8.1

    Coverage of essential health services

    3.8.2

    Proportion of population with large household expenditures on health as a share of total household expenditure or income

    3.9

    By 2030, substantially reduce the number of deaths and illnesses from hazardous chemicals and air, water and soil pollution and contamination
    3.9.1

    Mortality rate attributed to household and ambient air pollution

    3.9.2

    Mortality rate attributed to unsafe water, unsafe sanitation and lack of hygiene (exposure to unsafe Water, Sanitation and Hygiene for All (WASH) services)

    3.9.3

    Mortality rate attributed to unintentional poisoning

    3.a

    Strengthen the implementation of the World Health Organization Framework Convention on Tobacco Control in all countries, as appropriate
    3.a.1

    Age-standardized prevalence of current tobacco use among persons aged 15 years and older

    3.b

    Support the research and development of vaccines and medicines for the communicable and non-communicable diseases that primarily affect developing countries, provide access to affordable essential medicines and vaccines, in accordance with the Doha Declaration on the TRIPS Agreement and Public Health, which affirms the right of developing countries to use to the full the provisions in the Agreement on Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights regarding flexibilities to protect public health, and, in particular, provide access to medicines for all

    3.b.1

    Proportion of the target population covered by all vaccines included in their national programme

    3.b.2
    Total net official development assistance to medical research and basic health sectors
    3.b.3

    Proportion of health facilities that have a core set of relevant essential medicines available and affordable on a sustainable basis

    3.c

    Substantially increase health financing and the recruitment, development, training and retention of the health workforce in developing countries, especially in least developed countries and small island developing States
    3.c.1

    Health worker density and distribution

    3.d

    Strengthen the capacity of all countries, in particular developing countries, for early warning, risk reduction and management of national and global health risks

    3.d.1

    International Health Regulations (IHR) capacity and health emergency preparedness

    3.d.2

    Percentage of bloodstream infections due to selected antimicrobial-resistant organisms

    Goal 9

    Build resilient infrastructure, promote inclusive and sustainable industrialization and foster innovation

    Goal 9

    9.1

    Develop quality, reliable, sustainable and resilient infrastructure, including regional and transborder infrastructure, to support economic development and human well-being, with a focus on affordable and equitable access for all
    9.1.1

    Proportion of the rural population who live within 2 km of an all-season road

    9.1.2

    Passenger and freight volumes, by mode of transport

    9.2

    Promote inclusive and sustainable industrialization and, by 2030, significantly raise industry’s share of employment and gross domestic product, in line with national circumstances, and double its share in least developed countries

    9.2.1

    Manufacturing value added as a proportion of GDP and per capita

    9.2.2

    Manufacturing employment as a proportion of total employment

    9.3

    Increase the access of small-scale industrial and other enterprises, in particular in developing countries, to financial services, including affordable credit, and their integration into value chains and markets
    9.3.1

    Proportion of small-scale industries in total industry value added

    9.3.2

    Proportion of small-scale industries with a loan or line of credit

    9.4

    By 2030, upgrade infrastructure and retrofit industries to make them sustainable, with increased resource-use efficiency and greater adoption of clean and environmentally sound technologies and industrial processes, with all countries taking action in accordance with their respective capabilities

    9.4.1

    COemission per unit of value added

    9.5

    Enhance scientific research, upgrade the technological capabilities of industrial sectors in all countries, in particular developing countries, including, by 2030, encouraging innovation and substantially increasing the number of research and development workers per 1 million people and public and private research and development spending
    9.5.1

    Research and development expenditure as a proportion of GDP

    9.5.2

    Researchers (in full-time equivalent) per million inhabitants

    9.a

    Facilitate sustainable and resilient infrastructure development in developing countries through enhanced financial, technological and technical support to African countries, least developed countries, landlocked developing countries and small island developing States
    9.a.1

    Total official international support (official development assistance plus other official flows) to infrastructure

    9.b

    Support domestic technology development, research and innovation in developing countries, including by ensuring a conducive policy environment for, inter alia, industrial diversification and value addition to commodities
    9.b.1

    Proportion of medium and high-tech industry value added in total value added

    9.c

    Significantly increase access to information and communications technology and strive to provide universal and affordable access to the Internet in least developed countries by 2020

    9.c.1

    Proportion of population covered by a mobile network, by technology

    Goal 12

    Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns

    Goal 12

    12.1

    Implement the 10-Year Framework of Programmes on Sustainable Consumption and Production Patterns, all countries taking action, with developed countries taking the lead, taking into account the development and capabilities of developing countries

    12.1.1

    Number of countries developing, adopting or implementing policy instruments aimed at supporting the shift to sustainable consumption and production

    12.2

    By 2030, achieve the sustainable management and efficient use of natural resources

    12.2.1

    Material footprint, material footprint per capita, and material footprint per GDP

    12.2.2

    Domestic material consumption, domestic material consumption per capita, and domestic material consumption per GDP

    12.3

    By 2030, halve per capita global food waste at the retail and consumer levels and reduce food losses along production and supply chains, including post-harvest losses

    12.3.1

    (a) Food loss index and (b) food waste index

    12.4

    By 2020, achieve the environmentally sound management of chemicals and all wastes throughout their life cycle, in accordance with agreed international frameworks, and significantly reduce their release to air, water and soil in order to minimize their adverse impacts on human health and the environment

    12.4.1
    Number of parties to international multilateral environmental agreements on hazardous waste, and other chemicals that meet their commitments and obligations in transmitting information as required by each relevant agreement
    12.4.2

    (a) Hazardous waste generated per capita; and (b) proportion of hazardous waste treated, by type of treatment

    12.5

    By 2030, substantially reduce waste generation through prevention, reduction, recycling and reuse

    12.5.1

    National recycling rate, tons of material recycled

    12.6

    Encourage companies, especially large and transnational companies, to adopt sustainable practices and to integrate sustainability information into their reporting cycle

    12.6.1
    Number of companies publishing sustainability reports

    12.7

    Promote public procurement practices that are sustainable, in accordance with national policies and priorities

    12.7.1

    Number of countries implementing sustainable public procurement policies and action plans

    12.8

    By 2030, ensure that people everywhere have the relevant information and awareness for sustainable development and lifestyles in harmony with nature

    12.8.1

    Extent to which (i) global citizenship education and (ii) education for sustainable development are mainstreamed in (a) national education policies; (b) curricula; (c) teacher education; and (d) student assessment

    12.a

    Support developing countries to strengthen their scientific and technological capacity to move towards more sustainable patterns of consumption and production

    12.a.1

    Installed renewable energy-generating capacity in developing countries (in watts per capita)

    12.b

    Develop and implement tools to monitor sustainable development impacts for sustainable tourism that creates jobs and promotes local culture and products

    12.b.1

    Implementation of standard accounting tools to monitor the economic and environmental aspects of tourism sustainability

    12.c

    Rationalize inefficient fossil-fuel subsidies that encourage wasteful consumption by removing market distortions, in accordance with national circumstances, including by restructuring taxation and phasing out those harmful subsidies, where they exist, to reflect their environmental impacts, taking fully into account the specific needs and conditions of developing countries and minimizing the possible adverse impacts on their development in a manner that protects the poor and the affected communities

    12.c.1

    Amount of fossil-fuel subsidies (production and consumption) per unit of GDP

    Goal 13

    Take urgent action to combat climate change and its impacts

    Goal 13

    13.1

    Strengthen resilience and adaptive capacity to climate-related hazards and natural disasters in all countries

    13.1.1

    Number of deaths, missing persons and directly affected persons attributed to disasters per 100,000 population

    13.1.2

    Number of countries that adopt and implement national disaster risk reduction strategies in line with the Sendai Framework for Disaster Risk Reduction 2015–2030

    13.1.3

    Proportion of local governments that adopt and implement local disaster risk reduction strategies in line with national disaster risk reduction strategies

    13.2

    Integrate climate change measures into national policies, strategies and planning

    13.2.1

    Number of countries with nationally determined contributions, long-term strategies, national adaptation plans and adaptation communications, as reported to the secretariat of the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change

    13.2.2

    Total greenhouse gas emissions per year

    13.3

    Improve education, awareness-raising and human and institutional capacity on climate change mitigation, adaptation, impact reduction and early warning

    13.3.1

    Extent to which (i) global citizenship education and (ii) education for sustainable development are mainstreamed in (a) national education policies; (b) curricula; (c) teacher education; and (d) student assessment

    13.a

    Implement the commitment undertaken by developed-country parties to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change to a goal of mobilizing jointly $100 billion annually by 2020 from all sources to address the needs of developing countries in the context of meaningful mitigation actions and transparency on implementation and fully operationalize the Green Climate Fund through its capitalization as soon as possible

    13.a.1

    Amounts provided and mobilized in United States dollars per year in relation to the continued existing collective mobilization goal of the $100 billion commitment through to 2025

    13.b

    Promote mechanisms for raising capacity for effective climate change-related planning and management in least developed countries and small island developing States, including focusing on women, youth and local and marginalized communities


     

    13.b.1

    Number of least developed countries and small island developing States with nationally determined contributions, long-term strategies, national adaptation plans and adaptation communications, as reported to the secretariat of the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change

    Name Description

    Garments

    Garments made from pattern layout waste fabrics.

    3D model of garment made with block pattern waste

    Video of technique

    Staff / Technical expertise
    Melissa Lockwood is an expert and is available to consult and teach designers how to reduce their fabric waste and create more garments.
    Financing (in USD)
    I have been financing this research myself and through scholarship with Design Science Studio.
    No progress reports have been submitted. Please sign in and click here to submit one.
    Lowering Fashion Industry Waste is our Mission
    False
    MELISSA
    This is an example of a zero waste block pattern.
    The gray area is what is usually thrown away, my project will turn this into additional garments.
    In this image you can see the waste areas defined into new additional garment patterns.   Keep in mind in mass production each shape in produced in stacks of same shaped pieces.
    As you can see in the illustration nature also uses radial projection to create cylindrical objects.
    In addition you can see industrial uses of radial projection with geometric shapes.
    In this diagram you can see how radial projection works with same shape pieces.  I chose this trapezoid because I find them often in block pattern waste.
    This is a block pattern waste shape turned into a skirt with out altering the found shape.  The size can be determined by using as many pieces as needed.
    This is an example of a longer commonly found shape that easily makes a dress.
    These dresses were made with the first fabric pieces I applied radial projection.  These were stacks of pieces I actually pulled out of random fashion industry waste containers.
    Examples of garments made with block pattern waste.
    These are commonly found shapes as you can see they are the inverse siloette of a jacket and pants and edge of fabric spread.
    The most common block pattern waste shape is created when factories cut the out side edges off the stacks of fabric.  This is done so the block pattern can be placed precisly of the fabrics grain.  Garments can be made with this fabric also.
    Action Network
    Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network
    This initiative does not yet fulfil the SMART criteria.
    Share
    FacebookTwitterLinkedIn
    Timeline
    22 May 2020 (start date)
    22 May 2030 (date of completion)
    Entity
    N/A
    SDGs
    Region
    1. Europe
    2. Asia and Pacific
    3. North America
    Geographical coverage
    Earth USA
    Other beneficiaries

    Design Science Studio 

    https://www.designscience.studio

    Buckminster Fuller Institute

    https://www.bfi.org

    habRitual

    https://www.habritual.studio

    Melissa Lockwood

    http://www.iqtest-nyc.com

    Ocean Basins
    Global
    Photos
    MELISSA This is an example of a zero waste block pattern. The gray area is what is usually thrown away, my project will turn this into additional garments. In this image you can see the waste areas defined into new additional garment patterns.   Keep in mind in mass production each shape in produced in stacks of same shaped pieces. As you can see in the illustration nature also uses radial projection to create cylindrical objects. In addition you can see industrial uses of radial projection with geometric shapes. In this diagram you can see how radial projection works with same shape pieces.  I chose this trapezoid because I find them often in block pattern waste. This is a block pattern waste shape turned into a skirt with out altering the found shape.  The size can be determined by using as many pieces as needed. This is an example of a longer commonly found shape that easily makes a dress. These dresses were made with the first fabric pieces I applied radial projection.  These were stacks of pieces I actually pulled out of random fashion industry waste containers. Examples of garments made with block pattern waste. These are commonly found shapes as you can see they are the inverse siloette of a jacket and pants and edge of fabric spread. The most common block pattern waste shape is created when factories cut the out side edges off the stacks of fabric.  This is done so the block pattern can be placed precisly of the fabrics grain.  Garments can be made with this fabric also.
    More information
    Countries
    Costa Rica
    Costa Rica
    France
    France
    Poland
    Poland
    Portugal
    Portugal
    Ibero-American Network of Life Cycle Assesment
    United States of America
    United States of America
    Headquarters
    Earth USA
    Contact Information

    Melissa Lockwood, Artist